Help, my 01 Excursion 4x4 has a problem with the auto hubs staying engaged. Had it at the Ford dealer for a transmission fluid change and tech was doing a inspection and found my hub engaged with selector in 2wd. Service writer said 2hrs to diagnoise plus reassembly labor just to find out whats causing it, he said could be $1200-$2000 bill HELP!
Help, my 01 Excursion 4x4 has a problem with the auto hubs staying engaged. Had it at the Ford dealer for a transmission fluid change and tech was doing a inspection and found my hub engaged with selector in 2wd. Service writer said 2hrs to diagnoise plus reassembly labor just to find out whats causing it, he said could be $1200-$2000 bill HELP!
With no vacuum on the hubs they should release if the dial is in Auto position now if the dial is stuck in the Lock I'd hit the soaking stone with WD40 and the ring/lip then turn the ESOF switch to 4x4 to suck the WD40 in thru the soaking stone.
Now the hub is internally locked in with the dial in Auto try the WD40 on the stone then turn the switch to 4x4 a few times maybe the hub will release otherwise Eric and other members may chime in with their input/recommendations.
I can turn the hub on the outside of vehicle without any difficulty, I have tride to re-engage from switch inside and disengage, still fully engaged. I suppose I'm going to look intermally, I just hope it is the vacuum seals that are leaking.
I would go to the wheel and disconnect the vacuum into the top of the casting. If that does not diengage the hub, then I suspect that the hub needs to pulled apart and probably replaced. If disconnecting the vacuum line does disengage the hub, then I suspect the vacuum switch located on the inner fender behind the passneger side battery is bad and needs to be replaced.
Good luck...
//bruce
2000 Excursion Limited V10 4x4
ART brakes, Rancho RSX shocks, Hellwig rear sway bar, SD grille, V10 badges, Sylvania Silverstars, clear corners, and Bridgestone Dueler A/T REVO 285s.
Just a quick question. If they are locked in and he disconnects the vaccum line from both sides and they release can he just cap the hoses and the nipples on the castings until he can get around to replacing the piece thats defective?
If the hub disengages when he disconnects the vacuum line from the casting, that means that the hub is working properly and the problem is that there is a constant vacuum to the hub. So, yes, he could leave the vacuum line disconnected until he gets time to go further. I would reconnect the vacuum line to the casting and then pull the vacuum lines from the bottom of the vacuum switch. I would plug or bag them to keep them clear. He can still use the 4x4 by manually locking the hubs. But, to be honest, there is no problem with leaving the hub engaged. It costs a little in mileage and a tad additional wear, but I leave my hubs engaged most of the winter.
If pulling the vacuum line did release the hub then the problem could be the dash switch, the vacuum switch, or the wiring between them. My first guess would be the vacuum switch. So, disconnect the electrical connector from the vacuum switch. If that releases the hub, then it's not the vacuum, switch.
Next I'd disconnect the connector from the back of the dash 4x4 switch (still having it disconnected at the vacuum switch). I'd take an ohm meter and check the wiring for a short (which I think is next likely). If there is no short, then I would suspect the dash switch. But that would be my last choice.
//bruce
2000 Excursion Limited V10 4x4
ART brakes, Rancho RSX shocks, Hellwig rear sway bar, SD grille, V10 badges, Sylvania Silverstars, clear corners, and Bridgestone Dueler A/T REVO 285s.
Jay Hanratty
• Millbury, MA, USA
• Registered on 8/13/2004
• 35 posts
Posted:3/23/2005 17:24
I spoke with a Ford instructor today, he said quickest way to isolate problem is to remove vacuum line from knuckle and install vacuum pump if unit will hold 20" of vacuum for couple of minuetes, seals ok. If doesn't hold its in the wheel hub or seals.
I followed his recomendation and neither hub would hold any amount of Vacuum, so, I tore down one side, noticed rust seepage around "O" ring between Knuckle and Bearing Hub.
I ordered new seals for tomorrow and hopefully I can reassemble and check the fix on saturday.
The Ford instructor also gave me a ton of TSB's for this problem, one recommended to take the inner most thrust wasker and file four small notches into the inner portion of the washer where there are some cross hair grooves. Has anyone done This?, and can anyone tell me which direction does this thrust washer face? Cross hair grooves toward the hub or toward the grease seal?
Thanks
Jay
Jay, I guess I do not understand. The procedure that the Ford instructor described is the method to check the hubs when they WILL NOT ENGAGE. But in your original post, you said that the hub WILL NOT DISENGAGE. Applying a vacuum to a hub that will not DISENGAGE will tell you nothing. So which is it? Does the hun not ENGAGE or not DISENGAGE?
It is very common for these hubs to have a bad seal and not ENGAGE when you switch to 4x4. Having a hub that will not DISENGAGE is very rare (this is the first case I've heard of) and can only be caused by vacuum contantly applied or the hub jammed and won't release.
//bruce
2000 Excursion Limited V10 4x4
ART brakes, Rancho RSX shocks, Hellwig rear sway bar, SD grille, V10 badges, Sylvania Silverstars, clear corners, and Bridgestone Dueler A/T REVO 285s.
edited 3/24/2005 06:52
Jay Hanratty
• Millbury, MA, USA
• Registered on 8/13/2004
• 35 posts
Posted:3/24/2005 19:59
Hi
According to the Ford instructor, it requires 15" of vacuum to engage the auto hubs and 5.8" -7.9" to disengage. He said that I may have had the system engaged at one point and then loose its ability to hold a vacuum and when I switched the4x4 off the hub cavity was unable to hold the 5.8"- 7.9" of vacuum and did not de-activate the auto hub. He said that most believe that the auto hubs require constant vacuum to maintain engagement or dis-engagement, this is not the case, the quick intermitten input of vacuum into the cavity in a specified amount causes the internal springs to react, much like the button to extend or retract a ball point pen. By doing a simple vacuum test to each hub would determine if a cavity leak exists.
I also did a Vacuum out put test with a vacuum gauge and I was able to measure the 15" of activation vacuum and 7.0" of vacuum for the disengagement.
I spoke with a Ford Tech today as well, he said, if theres the right vacuum present for either mode then he would tear down hub from Knuckle and would bet on a bad grease / vacuum seal between axle shaft and Knuckle, most common source of leaks.
Posted:3/22/2005 19:54 
Posted:3/23/2005 11:01 
